More ace stuff from Australia and the Switch-foot laboratory... How good is this track by Shannon! Shannon is pure stoke and one of the most diverse and accomplished musicians anywhere.
I was glad recently to hear that Surfing World had published a story by George, which includes my first encounter with a shark.
Daniel Crockett wrote this bit in 2003. 'Look back at the beach and just as the eyes swivel back around to the horizon something big comes out of the water. As it leisurely breaks the surface, it twists over onto its side, before neatly disappearing 20 meters away from me and over 200 meters out from the beach. I scream like a little girl, adrenalin courses like never ever before in any situation. Scramble for a little one, clutching at straws, ride in and prone out, arms flailing like wind chimes in a storm. The water takes on a nightmarish black hue and the wave peters out. 40 meters of deep gutter and now the fear really starts. Convulsions sweep my body, almost bucking me off my board. Gibbering like a child, a petrified child I hit the beach and don't stop running until I am by my car. I know the meaning of fear.'